Journal

A First-Timer’s Guide to Lalibela

How to make the most of Ethiopia's rock-hewn churches: timing, etiquette and the churches you shouldn't miss.

2 September 2026

Photo: Thomas Fuhrmann / CC BY-SA 4.0

Nothing quite prepares you for Lalibela. You walk along a path, look down, and there, carved into the ground below you, is an entire church.

Go early

At dawn, white-robed pilgrims gather to pray and priests chant from ancient manuscripts. The atmosphere is extraordinary, and the light is beautiful.

Don’t miss

  • Bete Medhane Alem — the largest monolithic church in the world.
  • Bete Maryam — with its painted ceilings.
  • Bete Giyorgis — the cross-shaped Church of Saint George, set alone in its pit.
  • Yemrehanna Kristos — a church built inside a cave, 40 km away.

Etiquette

Dress modestly and bring socks, as shoes are removed inside. Ask before photographing people.

See our 7-Day Historic Ethiopia itinerary.

Related experiences

Safaris to experience it

Ethiopia · Kenya

12-Day Ethiopia & Kenya Safari

Ethiopia's churches, castles and Simien Mountains, then fly to Kenya for the Maasai Mara and Amboseli.

Addis Ababa – Lalibela – Gondar – Simien Mountains – Maasai Mara – Amboseli – Nairobi
PriceOn request
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8-Day Ethiopia Cultural Journey

Travel into southern Ethiopia's Omo Valley to meet diverse communities, visit weekly markets and explore the Konso terraces.

Addis Ababa – Omo Valley – Addis Ababa
PriceOn request
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6-Day Simien Mountains Trek

Trek the escarpments of the Simien Mountains among gelada troops and walia ibex, starting from historic Gondar.

Addis Ababa – Gondar – Simien Mountains – Gondar Airport
PriceOn request